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TOURS STARTING
FROM HERAKLEION
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Herakleion - Gazi - Tylissos - Gomes -
Idaean Cave - Anogheia - Axos -
Zoniana - Perama - Damasta - Fodele -
exit towards new national road along
the coast - Aghia Pelaghia -
Palaeokastro - Linoperamata -
Ammoudara - Herakleion.
We start off from Herakleion and head
towards the west. Passing through the
village of Ghazi, at the 10th km. we
come to an intersection and, taking the
left fork, we come to Tyiissos (14 kms.
west of Herakleion) in a valley planted
whith vineyards and olive trees.
Visit of Tylissos
Tyiissos, which retains its pre-Hellenic
name, was one of the most important
Minoan towns, as evidenced by the ex-
cavations there, which brought to light
precious finds: clay pithoi, amphorae,
pitchers, cooking utensils, incense
burners, tablets inscribed in Linear A
script, seals, stone vessels and im-
plements, offertory tables, large copper
cauldrons, double axes, wall-paintings,
a bronze figurine of a man in an attitude
of worship, and others (Archaeological
Museum of Herakleion).
Unlike Knossos, Phaestos and Mallia,
at Tyiissos no palace was found; how-
ever, three large, separate structures,
were characterized by J. Hadjidakis,
who excavated the site, as "houses".
They belong to the Late Minoan period
and include, as do the palaces, outdoor
courts, areas of worship, storerooms,
stairways, servants' quarters, living
areas, corridors, etc. A water supply
network and a circular cistern were also found.
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As we continue towards the west, be-
tween Tyiissos and Gonies, in a long
and narrow valley called "Sklavokambos", we come to the
site of the ruins of the Minoan megaron (villa) of Sklavokambos,
which dates from approximately 1500 BC.
Gonies (26 kms. from Herakleion) is a
mountain village, built amphitheatrically on the flank of a mountain,
with a
magnificent view. Further on and just
before we get to Anogheia, at the 36th
km., a road to the left leads to the Nida
plateau, to the Psiloritis Mountain and
ends at the Idaean cave, after a drive of
21 kms. (for half of this distance the
road is tarred, the remainder is a dirt
road).
According to mythology, this is where
Zeus was brought up, and a number of
festivals in his honour were held in this
cave.
It is considered certain that the Idaean
cave served as a place of worship until
Roman times.
It was discovered entirely by accident
by a shepherd, in 1884, and was explor-
ed for the first time the following year.
New excavations which were begun in
1982 by the archaeologist, G. Sakella-
rakis, have brought to light a number of
finds, which testify to human presence
in this cave from the end of the Neolithic period.
Among these are: iron weapons and im-
plements, bronze vessels and figurines,
bronze votive shields engraved with
hunting scenes, bone and ivory objects
etc. (Archaeological Museum of Herakleion).
The cave is at an altitude of 1,540 m.
above sea level, has an impressive en-
trance, a large chamber followed by two
horizontal ones, while between these
and perpendicularly to them opens up
the "Adyton" (the "untrodden" - or inner sanctum).
As we continue our route, we come to
Anogheia (36.5 kms.), built on the
northern foothills of the Psiloritis
Mountain, near the boundaries of the
prefectures of Herakleion and Rethy-
mnon.
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Κάτω:
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Archaeological site
of Tylisos. |
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It is a fairly large town renowned for its
rich traditions, picturesque customs,
meat and dairy products and genuine
Cretan handwoven articles.
During the Turkish occupation, the
people of Anogheia played an impor-
tant role in the struggle for independ-
ence, as they did during the German oc-
cupation, when they organised a fierce
resistance movement against the oc-
cupiers. German reprisals were not
long in coming: the town was razed to
the ground on August 15th, 1944, and
many of its inhabitants were executed.
Today, Anogheia is an important cen-
tre of tourist activity and offers a good
number of beds in small hotels and
homes. There are also restaurants and
tavernas where one can enjoy the local
specialities, as well as many shops
where one can purchase hand - made
objects created by local folk artists, and
traditional hand-woven articles.
Continuing westwards, we come to
Axos - which retains its ancient name.
On the site of the ancient town, Late
Minoan potsherds were discovered, as
well as ruins of walls, archaic remains
and clay female figurines. At the entrance to the town there is
an important church of the 14th or 15th century, dedicated to Saint
Irene.
From Axos, we follow the road which
leads southwestwards to the village of
Zoniana. Nearby, on an imposing site,
is the "Sendoni"or, as the locals call it,
"Sfendoni" cave, rich in stalactites and
stalagmites. Its length is 550 m. and it
covers an area of 3300 sq. metres.
The road continues towards the northwest and passes through various
villages (Livadia, Aghios loannis, Aghios
Mamas, Avdellas, Houmeri) and arrives at Perama (33.5 kms. from
Anogheia).
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Above:
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A daily scene in the
picturesque little streets
of Anogheic.. |
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From here
a road to the north, 7 kms. in
length, leads to the new coastal nation-
al road between Herakleion and
Rethymnon, outside the village of Panormos. Four kilometres to the
northwest of Perama lies Melidoni and, 1800 m. northwest of the village,
the cave of the same name, at an altitude of 300 m. approximately.
It is known also as "Gerontospilia" or "Gerontospilios"
(the old man's cave). As is evidenced by the religious objects found
here, the cave was
used as a place of worship from Minoan
to Roman times.
During the period of Turkish occupation (1823), about 400 inhabitants
of the village - most of them women and children - suffered a tragic
death when they refused to surrender and took refuge in this cave.
The Turks set fire to the entrance of the cave and all those inside
died of suffocation.
There is a monument at the cave, erect-
ed in memory of the martyred victims.
The cave consists of an enormous cham-
ber (the Heroes' Chamber) with two
long and narrow passages to the right
and left, decorated with impressive
clusters of stalactites and stalagmites.
At the end of the left passage there is a
stepped precipice.
Seven and a half kilometres east of Perama, a road to the left leads
to Aghia
and Melidoni. From the 10th km. after
Perama, a road leads off in a south-
easterly direction towards Gharazo,
Veni, Axos, Anogheia.
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Below:
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Sendoni Cave, near the
village of Zoniana. |
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As our main
road continues eastwards,
at the 23rd km. of the Perama- Herakleion road we come upon a detour
to the north, towards the Cretan sea and the villages of Aloides and
Sisses. We continue on our main route, passing through Damasta and,
at the 33rd km.,
a fork to the north leads to the monastery of Aghios Pandeleimon and
to Fodele (7.5 kms. from the intersection), a picturesque little village
surrounded by rich orange groves.
This is the native village of the great
painter Domenikos Theotokopoulos, or
"El Greco" (1545-1614). The house
where he was born is still standing.
Near ihe vmage ihere is a church dedi-
cated to the Presentation of the Virgin.
At a distance of three kilometres to the
north of Fodele, our road comes out onto
the new coastal national road between
Herakleion and Rethymnon. (From the
Fodele intersection to Herakleion: 26
kms.).
We follow the new national road and 4.5
kms. further on, a road to the left leads, after 3.5 kms., to the
picturesque bay of |
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Below:
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Ammoudara. Seaside
holiday resort near the
town of Herakleion |
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Aghia Pelaghia — a lovely beach with
accommodation for tourists. Passing
through Palaeokastro, Pantanassa, Li-
noperamata — busy coastal settle-
ments on the bay of Herakleion — we
come to an intersection before Ghazi.
Here we leave the national road and fol-
low a coastal road to the left towards
the bay of Ammoudara and Hera-
kleion.
Outside Linoperamata, there is a road
to the right of the national road which
leads north to Rogdia, a charming vil-
lage on a verdant slope. To the north-
west of this village is the monastery of
the Sabbathians, standing remote and
solitary, in an idyllic setting. The
monastery has two churches, one dedi-
cated to the Holy Virgin and the other
to Saint Anthony. The church of St. An-
thony is 200 m. further along and part
of it is carved out of the rock
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Below:
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Byzantine church at
Fodele.
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