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The town is linked by
air to Athens and
Thessaloniki throughout the year, and
seasonally to Rhodes, Santorini, Paros,
Mykonos and Cyprus. There are also
charter nights which link it to many
European cities.
The town is linked by sea to the port of
Piraeus, to several of the islands of the
Cyclades and the Dodecanese, to Cyprus,
Italy and Israel.
Local and regional buses run between
the town and a variety of destinations,
both within the province and beyond.
History
The town is built on the site of the small
harbour which was the seaport of
Knossos. This small harbour much later
became an important fortified town under
the Arabs, who held it for a period of
over one hundred years (824-961 AD).
They built strong walls to protect it and
surrounded it with a deep moat (from
which it got its name "Chandax" from
the Arabic word "khandak" meaning
moat). During the period of Venetian rule
(1204-1699) it was called Candia, a
name which eventually came to cover
the entire island. This was a period of
prosperity for the town, which was
fortified by its occupiers with another
strong wall, was adorned with a great
number of splendid buildings, fountains,
squares and churches, and a time during
which the arts and literature also
nourished. Then, after 21 years of
close siege, the town finally surrendered
to its new conquerors who, this time,
came from the East: the Turks (1669).
Its name was changed to Megalo Kastro
(Great Castle), its fortifications were
repaired and additions made, but the
town was now plunged into the darkness
of slavery, its prosperity was gone, while
its population was decimated by savage
massacres (1828 and 1898).
In 1913, Herakleion was incorporated
into the free Greek State, together with
the rest of Crete. During the German
occupation its inhabitants organised a
brave resistance movement together
with the other Cretan patriots.
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Below:
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View of the harbour
ofHerakleion. |
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Right:
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Koules, with the stone-
carved Lion of Saint
Mark. |
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Visit
of the town
Herakleion is a modern town (the
largest of the island, with a population
of approximately 105,000 inhabitants),
and is the administrative, commercial,
industrial and agricultural centre of Crete.
Its spectacular development, during these last decades after the
war, resulted in the town's facing, today, all the thorny problems
of large modern towns - building anarchy, traffic jams, not enough
parks and breathing spaces, neighbourhoods that are becoming impersonal
and rundown.
Despite this, however, there are many
corners in this busy capital which bring
to mind memories of its tempestuous past.
The old port: It is to be found on
the
left side of the modern port. During the
Venetian period, it was an important
commercial and military centre.
The Venetian walls: These are the most important fortifications
of the Venetian period. Today, seven ramparts still stand, as do
two of the four gates: the Chania gate on the western side of the
castle
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precinct,
with the winged Lion of St. Mark carved in relief, a carved bust of
God Pantocrator and a Greek inscription on its exterior face. On the
inside there is a medallion with the bust of God Pantocrator, in relief,
and the inscription OMNIPOTENS (the Latin equivalent of Pantocrator);
it is for this reason that this gate was known as the Pantocrator
Gate. From this gate, Candia communicated with
the whole of western Crete. The New
Gate is on the south side of the compound and, as its name implies,
it is
more recent. It has a decoration, an inscription with the date of
its construction (1587) and the name of the "provleptis"
(governor), Mocenigo, on its inside face. The space near this gate
has
been turned into a modern outdoor theatre.
On the southernmost end of the precint,
within the walls, is the rampart of Mar-
tinengo and, on a flat hill, the modest
grave ofNikos Kazantzakis, with a plaque
on which are inscribed the words of the
world-famous Cretan writer: "I hope for
nothing, I fear nothing, I am free". The
view from this spot is magnificent.
The Castle or Koules: This was built
at
the entrance of the Venetian port in order
to protect it from raids. On its sides can be seen fragments of
the carved lions of Saint Mark which used to adorn the wall. The
Castle is open to the public and, on the top, an outdoor theatre
has been built. The name Koules is a Turkish name. The Venetians
called it Rocca al Mare.
The Church of St. Titus: St. Titus
is the
patron saint of the island, and the Church is in the square of the
same name. It is a
blend of Eastern and Western architectural elements. It was initially
built by the Byzantines. After alterations by the Venetians and
the Turks - the former used it as a Catholic Cathedral and the latter
as a mosque - it was destroyed by the great earthquake of 1856.
In 1872 it was rebuilt on its old foundations and later some alterations
were made, so that it could again be used as a Greek Orthodox church.
This is where the holy relics of St. Titus are kept.
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Above: |
The old harbord. |
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The Church
of St. Mark, in Venizelos or
Krini square. It was built by the Venetians
who dedicated it to their patron saint.
After the fall of Herakleion, the Turks
turned the church into a mosque, adding
on a minaret. In 1956 it was restored to its original aspect. It is
used, today, as a Literary Institute, as a permanent exhibition hall
for copies of Byzantine frescoes, and as a concert hall.
The Cathedral of St. Minas, in Saint
Catherine square. This is a large and im-
pressive church, one of the largest in
Greece. It is cruciform with four straight
pillars, an impressive dome and two very
tall belltowers. At its northwestern comer
stands the old church of Saint Minas and
of the Presentation to the Temple.
The Loggia: a rectangular, two-storey
building, the most elegant of the Venetian
buildings of the town. Today it houses the
Town Hall. It was built between 1626-
1628 by the General Provleptis, Francesco
Morosini, to whom we owe the fountain of
the same name. During the Venetian
period, it was a place of meeting and recreation for the nobility.
From its balconies, the Duke used to address the people or view
various ceremonies. The building of today is a restoration of the
old building, which was destroyed.
The Morosini fountain: It is in
the middle of Venizelos square, which is also called
Krini ('Yountain") square. This square was
a version in miniature of the square of
Saint Mark, in Venice, and constituted the centre of Venetian Candia.
Here stood im-
pressive administrative buildings as well
as the Duke's palace (Palazzo Ducale), and it was, of course, adorned
in keeping with its purpose and importance.
Water for the fountain was brought here
through the aqueduct, which was also
built during the time of Morosini.
Today, the fountain has a central basin,
resting on the backs of four lions. The
water pours into eight intercommunicat-
ing basins decorated whith reliefs depict-
ing scenes from Greek mythology. Initially, a giant statue of the
god Poseidon with a trident in his hand, stood in the middle of
the fountain, which is why it was called "Fountain of the Giant"
(Tsigante).
This statue was probably destroyed in an
earthquake.
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Above: |
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Nikos Kazantzalds' grave. |
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The
Bembo fountain in Komaros
square. This is the oldest fountain to have
survived. It got its name from the Venetian, Bembo, who built it in
1588 and had it decorated with reliefs of Venetian coats of arms and
a Roman statue of a headless man set in its wall. Its facade is adorned
with pilasters and columns.
In the same square, on the site of the church of the Sotiras (Saviour),
belonging to the Order of the Augustine monks, which was pulled down,
stands a modem sculpture of Erotokritos and Arethusa, heroes of the
homonymous poem, written by the famous Cretan poet Vicenzo Komaros.
The Priuli or Delimarcos fountain was
built, according to an inscription, in 1666
by the General Provleptis Antonio Priuli
who found a vein of water inside the moat.
The Public Services Building: Here
stood the barracks of St. George, built by
the Venetians in the 16th century. These
were destroyed and rebuilt by the Turks.
The old Venetian gate has survived.
The Vikelian Library, on the first
floor
of the municipal building called "Aktarika". It was founded
in 1910 with books
donated by Demetrios Vikelas. It contains
approximately 80,000 volumes.
The Municipal Market, on "1866"
street. This is a picturesque part of the modem Cretan town, a bustling
and colourful outdoor market, offering in plenty all kinds of goods
— market produce, fruit, dried fruit and nuts, Cretan rolls, herbs,
spices, meats, cheeses and souvenirs, decorative objects etc. |
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Below:
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The Morosini fountain. |
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Left:
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Scenes in the Municipal
Market |
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