Chania - Maleme - Tavronites -
Kolymbari - Gonia Monastery - (Spilia -
Cracona - Episkopi) - Kissamos -
Polyrrhenia - Platanos - Falasama.

Starting out from Chania we drive west-
wards towards Kissamos, along the coast.
At the 4th km. we come to the site
called Makris Tichos ("Long Wall"),
where there is a road for Daratsos and
Galatas, the scene of an important bat-
tle against the Germans. Further along
the main road we meet lovely seaside
villages and settlements: Kato Dara-
tsos, Kato Stalos, Aghia Marina, Plata-
nias (the islet of Aghioi Theodoroi lies
opposite), Palaeo Gerani, Maleme (16.5
kms. west of Chania), all of which
provide accommodation for visitors,
tavernas, restaurants, etc. Southbound
roads from almost all of these villages
lead us to densely-wooded areas,

Maleme was where the old airport of
Chania, which has now been abandon-
ed, was situated. This is also where the
massive German invasion by parachut-
ists began, during the Battle of Crete.
North of the village, at a place called
Kafkalos, a vaulted late Minoan tomb,
which had been plundered and only
contained some potsherds and two seal-
stones, was discovered.

Maleme today is a modern tourist village providing accommodation for visitors. One kilometre from Maleme is the German military cemetery. At the 20th km. lies the village of Tavronitis which got its name from the river of the same name. A road from this village leads southwards to Palaeochora (see routes 17 and 19).

We continue westwards, and after Ra-
paniana, 23 kms. along this road - the
main road continues southwestwards
towards Kissamos - we come to an intersection. The road northwards leads
to Kolymbari and the Gonia monastery.

Kolymbari is a lovely seaside village attracting many tourists. It is built on the
westernmost point of the Bay of Chania. To the north lies the peninsula of
Rhodopos.

One kilometre north of Kolymbari is the Monastery of Gonia, dedicated to the Holy Virgin Hodegetria (who guides).
It is surrounded by a courtyard, around
which are built the monks' cells, the abbot's quarters, the refectory, the storerooms and cellars. Only a few books
survived the fire set by the Turks in
1866 to the rich library of the monastery. There is also a collection of important post-Byzantine icons and a treasury containing holy relics and other precious objects.

During the Greek War of Independence
of 1812, it served as a hospital and,
during the German occupation, it was
the focus of an active resistance movement. To the north of the monastery
stands the building of the Orthodox
Academy of Crete and 2 kilometres further on, the modest monument erected in memory of the Military Cadets who fell during the Battle of Crete.

covered with murals. We then come to
Drakonas and Episkopi (3 kms. south-
west of Draconas). At Episkopi, it is
worth visiting the impressive Rotonda,
a church dedicated to the Archangel
Michael, the architectural style of
which is unique in Crete.

We continue along the main road. Out-
side Kolymbari, 2.5 kms. after the in-
tersection, we come to a right turn-off
leading to Rhodopos, in the heart of the
peninsula of the same name.

We continue further west and, after
passing through various villages: Kaledonia, Plakalona, Drapanias, Kaloudiana, we come to Kissamos or Kastelli, 32 kms. west of Chania. From Kaloudiana, a road southwards takes one to Topolia - Chrysoskalitissa - Palaeochora (route Chania 4).

Kissamos is a small town built on a bay
of the same name, on the site of ancient
Kissamos, which was the harbour of
neighbouring Polyrrhenia.

The town stretches alongside a wonder-
ful sandy beach, at the edge of a verd-
ant plain planted with olive groves and
vineyards.

The ruins that we can see today date
mainly from the Roman period, when
the town was particularly prosperous.

The Venetians built a fort - Castello - here, which gave the town its name.
The fort was destroyed by Barbarossa
and, in 1646, it was taken by the Turks.
The ruins, which are visible today, are
additions and repairs made by its latest
conquerors. From Kissamos there are
regular services to Gytheion, on the
mainland of the Peloponnese, and the
island of Kythera.
Seven kilometres to the south lie the
ruins of the ancient city of Polyrrhenia.
It was built on a naturally fortified hill,
not very far from the present-day set-
tlement of the same name. It was an im-
portant city of western Crete, with a
strong acropolis and, as the finds indicate, it was inhabited from the Archaic to the Roman period. It was re-inhabited in the 10th century. It had an impressive aqueduct, ruins of which are still preserved.

We continue a little further west of
Kissamos. The road leaves the coast and turns south towards Zerviana, Gramvousa and Platanos (10 kms. from Kissamos). Outside the village of Platanos, there is a road to the right, only half of which is tarred, leading north to Ancient Falasarna

(5.5 kms. from Platanos) on the northwestern coast of the island.
In ancient times, this was an important
commercial and naval centre, built on a
naturally fortified position and serving
as a harbour for neighbouring Polyr-
rhenia The beach of Falasarna, with its fine sand and lovely coves, is one of the most beautiful in Crete.

In this modern settlement one can find
rooms to rent and tavernas. To the
north lies the deserted peninsula which
ends up at the Vouza point. Opposite
the cape is the small desert island of
Agria ("wild") Gramvousa and further
south that oflmeri ("mild, tame") Gram-
vousa or plain Gramvousa. The Vene-
tians built a fortress on the latter islet,
on a sheer rock; it was taken by the Cre-
tan insurgents in 1825, and was used
by them as their base for suprise as-
saults against the Turks.

Gramvousa was the first portion of Cretan territory to become free. In 1828 it fell into the hands of the British and the
French.