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Anchored in the sea,
on the crossroads
of three continents - Europe to the
North, Asia to the east and Africa to the
south, Crete seems to spread its length
like a barrier across the southern Ae-
gean. It lies at a distance of approxi-
mately 100 kms from the southernmost
tip of the Peloponnese, 175 kms. from
the shores of Asia Minor, and 800 kms.
from Africa. It is the largest of the
Greek islands, and fifth in size among
the islands of the Mediterranean, after
Sicily, Sardinia, Corsica and Cyprus.
Its coasts are washed by the waters of
the Cretan Sea on the northern side, by
the Libyan Sea on the southern side, by
the Karpathian Sea on the eastern side,
and on the west by the Myrtoon Sea.
Its maximum length is 260 kms. from
the Gramvousa point in the northwest
up to the Sideros point in the southeast,
while its width varies from 60 kms.
(from Stavros point to Lithino Cape) to
12 kms. at the lerapetra straits (gulf of
Mirabello to lerapetra bay). Its area is
8,261 sq. kms. and, together with the is-
lets of Gavdos and Dia, 8,303 sq. kms.
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The length of its coastline is 1,046 kms.
Crete is a mountainous island, with
three large ranges: the White Moun-
tains or Madares in the western part of
the island (highest peak: Pachnes -
2.453 m.), Mt. Ida or Psiloritis in the
central part of the island (highest peak:
Timios Stavros, 2.456 m.) and Dicte, or
Lasithi mountains, which dominates
the eastern part of Crete (anonymous
peak of 2,148m.).
Apart from these large ranges, there
are also smaller ones and mountains
not quite as high: Asterousia or Kofina,
connecting Ida with Dicte, Virgiomeno,
Toumba, Moutsounas, Selena, all ex-
tensions of Dicte, the mountains of
Thrypte rising east of the province Jof
lerapetra, and others.
Crete also nas a numoer of plateaus
among the mountain peaks. The land,
here, is usually fertile and the rainwa-
ter which collects in these natural ba-
sins during the winter makes these
plateaus ideal for agriculture.
The richest plateau is that of Lasithi,
which lies between the peaks of Dicte,
at a height of approximately 900 m. The
peaks of the White Mountains enclose,
at a height of 700 m., the Omalos
plateau, which figures in many a Cre-
tan folk song, while between the peaks
of the Psiloritis lies the Nida plateau, at
a height of approximately 1,400 m.
The island's plains are not very wide,
but the Cretans also use the gentle
slopes of hills and mountains, as well as
certain coastal areas, in the shelter of
coves, to grow certain types of agricul-
tural products.
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Above: |
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The Samaria Gorge. |
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The most
important of the island's
plains are to be found in northern
Crete. They are (from west to east): the
Kastelli plain in the Kissamos pro-
vince, the Aghia valley, the Chanea
plain, the coastal agricultural lands of
Georgioupolis, the Rethymnon valley,
the high plains of Monofatsi and Kastelli in the prefecture ofHerakleion,
the
coastal plain of Chersonissos-Mallia
and the low-lying area of Siteia. Be-
tween Ida and the Asteroussia moun-
tains (the southern part), lies the wide
Messara plain which, ever since anti-
quity, supplied the entire island with
wheat.
The rivers of Crete are few and unim-
portant. As the island is so narrow, the
torrents that are formed on the moun-
tain-sides do not have far to go before
they empty into the sea, and they do
not, therefore, have time to develop into
rivers.
The limestone earth also contributes to
the absorption of much of the surface
water and to the formation of karstic
scenery.
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Above: |
Lake Kournas at Chania. |
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The main rivers are the Geropotamos
river and the Anapodiaris, in the Mes-
sara plain, the Tyflos and Kolenis riv-
ers in the Chanea plain, and the Kour-
taliotis and Patelis in Siteia.
Apart from some water holes and' a
small lake (Kourna) in the Apokoronou
province, Crete has no lakes or important springs in its mountains.
A particular characteristic of Crete is
the existence of many caves, whichwere formed as a result of the
karstic effects, through the ages, of water on the
limestone rocks.
Most of these have been known since prehistoric times and were used
as places of shelter and of worship, as is proved by the various
finds brought to light. The most important of these caves are: the
Dictaean Cave (on Mount Dicte near Psychro village), the Idaean
Cave (on Mount Ida near the village ofAnogheia), the Melidoni Cave
in the province of
Apokoronou (near the village of the
same name), the Cave of Omalos in
Chania province (known as the abysscave ofTzannes) and the Sendoni
Cave in Rethymnon province.
Another particularly interesting
phenomenon which is characteristic of
the island is the formation of gorges
which, starting from the mountains,
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Above: |
The Kourtaliotikos gorge
in the prefecture of
Rethymnon. |
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reach all the way to the sea and cut
deeply into the land of Crete. The best-
known and the largest is the Samaria
Gorge, or Farangas, in the Chanea pre-
fecture, which separates the main bulk
of the White Mountains from Volakia.
Another gorge, also in the Chanea pre-
fecture, is the Nimbros or Imbros
Gorge, which separates the White
Mountains from the Angathes peak,
the gorge called Lagos toil Katre and
the Kourtaliotiko gorge, in the Re-
thymnon prefecture, between the
Kouroupas and the Xero mountains.
The coastline of Crete is very jagged,
forming a multitude of smaller or larger
bays, creeks, capes, peninsulas. The
northern coasts are more abrupt, with
varying expanses of sand between the
rocks. Those on the southern side are
quieter and form sandy bays.
Though Crete is a mountainous island
with few low-lying areas, its agricul-
tural production is rich, as a result of
the fertility of its soil and its mild cli-
mate. The main products are: olives,
grapes (table varieties, wine grapes,
sultanas), citrus fruit, carobs, aromatic
and medicinal herbs, garden produce,
bananas, avocados, kiwi fruit etc.
Crete was well-known since antiquity
for its cypress forests (Herodotus,
1.100). Indeed, it has been recorded that
the Pharaohs of Egypt obtained cypress
wood from Crete for the construction of
their ships.
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Above:
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Peace and arduous
labour on the Lasithi
plateau. |
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Today we find cypress forests in the
area of Aghios Vassilios in Rethymnon.
On the islets of Chryssi and Gavdos
there are cedar forests and at Vai, in
the Siteia province, there is the famous
palm tree forest with its unique and
rare type of palm tree (Phoenix Theo-
phrastii).
In the Selinos and Kissamos province of
Chanea there are forests of chestnut,
oak and fir trees while, in some areas,
grows a particular type of plane tree,
known as Platanus, varietas Cretica,
which keeps its leaves all the year
round.
In the rocky areas and the forests many
grassy plants and bushes grow
(laudanum, dictamon, aromatic herbs)
and a great variety of wild flowers
which give special colour and perfume
to the beautiful Cretan landscape.
Deep in the gorges and in the most remote parts of the island, far
from
human activity and the jarring inter-
ventions of science and technology, |
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Above: |
The cretan people are still
closely bound to the fertile
land of their island and
engage in farming and
livestock raising as they
have done throughout the
centuries. |
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a rare and rich plant and animal life still
survives, extremely worthy of study
and interest. We find many indigenous
varieties of plants, which only grow on
Crete, as well as a kind of wild goat (the
kri-kri), the Capra Aegagrus Cretica,
which today lives only on the White
Mountains, in the Samaria Gorge and
on the small offshore islets of Aghioi
Pantes, Dia and Thodoros.
Animal breeding and fishing occupy an
important place in the island's eco-
nomy. Cretan grazing lands mainly
support goats, and the cheeses produc-
ed (Cretan gruyere, anthotyros,
myzithra) are characterised by their
excellent quality and taste. Crete's sub-
soil is rich in asbestos, gypsum and lig-
nite. However, only lignite is commer-
cially exploited.
The climate is gentle and healthy, with
mild winters and hot summers in the
coastal areas and plains, while in the
mountains the winters are quite harsh.
Administratively, Crete is divided into
four prefectures: Herakleion, with
Herakleion town as its capital, Lasithi,
with Aghios Nikolaos as its capital, Re-
thymnon, whose capital is the town of
the same name, and Chania, with its
capital, Chania.
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